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- CULTURES, Page 48COVER STORIESPAPUA NEW GUINEAA Chronicler of Elders' Wisdom
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- Papua New Guinea is a raucous teenager of a country, boiling
- with the vitality and conflict that come with its kaleidoscope
- of cultures. The stresses between traditional ways and the
- demands of modern commerce bedevil the island north of Australia
- with near anarchy in the cities, persistent tribal wars in the
- highlands and intermittent insurrection in the province of
- Bougainville. While many of New Guinea's people have become
- alienated from traditional ways during these growing pains, Saem
- Majnep, a simple man from the highlands, has responded by making
- it his cause to preserve tribal learning and restore respect for
- the accumulated wisdom of 800 peoples.
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- A diminutive man from the Kalam people of the Kaironk
- valley, Majnep is a living bridge between the subsistence life
- of a remote part of New Guinea's highlands and the world of
- science. In recent years, he has served as a collaborator on
- several scientific monographs published by Oxford University
- Press. Hired as an adolescent in 1959 to translate for New
- Zealand ornithologist Ralph Bulmer, Majnep soon found himself
- being interviewed for his familiarity with the feeding and
- breeding habits of birds that Bulmer was studying in the region.
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- Bulmer's respect for the knowledge of the Kalam people had
- a profound effect on Majnep. After assisting Bulmer, Majnep
- went on to work as a technician at the University of Papua New
- Guinea. Bulmer is now dead, and Majnep has returned to his
- village, where he continues to record his people's observations
- of animals and plants. "If you stay in your village, it is easy
- to pick up this learning because it is still all around you,"
- he says. "But when people go to Madang ((the nearest city)),
- they lose it very quickly." Throughout the country, though,
- Majnep notes that the younger generation feels shame rather than
- pride in what their ancestors knew.
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- Alarmed at how easily this wisdom slips from its fragile
- perch in oral traditions, he also spends a good deal of time
- speaking to other tribes in New Guinea, either in person or on
- the radio, exhorting them to take pride in their culture. "I am
- an uneducated man," he tells them, "but white people value what
- I know."
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- With bountiful soils that make subsistence living an
- attractive alternative to workaday jobs, New Guinea's tribal
- life is still vibrant. Majnep says his biggest concern is the
- misuse of the land, as people abandon traditional crop rotation
- and forget about taboos that used to protect the forest. Still,
- people like Majnep raise hopes that the island nation may find
- an accord between tradition and modernity.
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